Corsica Wildways
3-Days Bikepacking Around Corsica
By Dwayne Burgess
To say Corsica was a trip of a lifetime would be an understatement…, every climb, coastal view, and quiet village felt like stepping into a dream I never wanted to end. Corsica is a hidden gem, a French island nestled between the coast of France and Italy, and often called the “Island of Beauty”. It felt to me like a place for cyclists who crave adventure, variety, and challenge. And not just the route, but getting there.
The Day Before Corsica Wildways got wild
The ferry ride coming into Bonifacio from Sardinia was just 30 minutes. I can see the mountainous island off in the distance, and of course this is when I get into my head, questioning my planning and capabilities. I first thought most about the route since everything was unknown to me, I said to myself, what if there are unexpected road closures, what if I can’t speak French in a small village, what do I do if not 1, but 2 tires blowout. All the known false evidence appearing real that we tell ourselves to stop us from pursuing the unknown. All I knew is that I have a plan, and I was going to stick to it, and if a roadblock stopped me, I will just have to figure it out.
Arriving in Bonifacio before Noon was the perfect time. Exploring the dramatic coastal cliffs, and medieval old town set the tone and gave me this powerful sense of connection to nature and history blending the past and the present. That evening, I set up my bike, made sure everything was ready for the journey ahead, and turned in early, eager for what the next day would bring.
Day 1: Bonifacio to Zonza
The ride out of Bonifacio gave way to incredible views of the turquoise ocean, and boats parked on the marina. But the climbing was nothing of the sort. It was tough, but manageable given I had the property wide range of gearing setup. I was thankful that my setup was relatively light. I plotted out a few places along the route where I can get food, but learned quickly that many of the villages I passed through close early and set up for dinner time which is something I was unaware of. I later learned that mealtimes are structured in that it’s not just about eating, but it’s about the ritual and rhythm of French culture.
I spent the entire day riding through the mountains, along quiet roads that wound through quaint villages where only a few people were out. Even as the elevation climbed and each pedal stroke grew heavier, I didn’t mind. I embraced the newness of the place, and before long, any trace of fear or defeat simply faded away.I arrived at Camp La Rivière just before 5 p.m., with plenty of daylight to spare. The staff were incredibly helpful, guiding me to the most comfortable spots to pitch my tent. After a long day of riding, a simple dinner of local meats, cheeses, and bread from the nearby market turned out to be the perfect, delicious way to end the day.
Corsica Wildways Bikepacking Trip Images_Dwayne Pedals (6)
Corsica Wildways Bikepacking Trip Images_Dwayne Pedals (3)
Day 2: Zonza to Ajaccio
I woke up to the sound of thunder and rain hammering my tent at 3 a.m. It was loud but oddly relaxing and somehow felt comforting. Thankfully, I stayed dry and managed to drift back to sleep. By morning, the sun’s warmth began to make its way in my tent, signaling it was time to pack up for another day in Corsica.
I was excited to descend to sea level to check out Ajaccio, but first, I had miles of climbing ahead. The ride began with a steady 7% grade out of Zonza, with the cool morning air clinging to the alpine trees around me. As I rode above the treeline, the vastness of the Corsican mountains suddenly revealed itself, it was a raw, immense, and humbling feeling. The narrow road I was on wound along a jagged ridge like the spine of a dragon from a fantasy film.
I stopped to take it all in. The granite peaks towered in silence, their stillness pulling me deeper into thought. In that moment, alone on the road on that mountain, I felt an overwhelming sense of gratitude for the solitude, the challenge, and the simple truth that I was exactly where I was meant to be.
The ride into Ajaccio was calm. With most of the big climbs behind me, it felt good to coast downhill for a while. The road wound through rolling hills and chestnut forests, twisting and dipping in that effortless rhythm on the bike that felt familiar, a feeling that makes you feel like you’re flying.
As I approached a small stone village, the landscape began to open up, and a few more people appeared along the roadside. I passed locals chatting outside and waved, saying “Bonjour,” as they glanced at my bike and gear with curiosity. Riding through those villages felt like stepping back in time, the pace of life was slow, and I found myself slowing down with it. I’d stop for water now and then, just to look around and take in how peaceful it all was.
After hours of remote mountain terrain, grinding up switchbacks, then flying through open valleys, the moment I rolled into Ajaccio felt almost surreal. Suddenly, I was surrounded by palm trees, ocean air, and the vast turquoise Mediterranean. I set up camp at Chez Antoine, a small beachfront campground that felt like paradise after a long day on the road.
As the sun set, I went down by the ocean, and reflected on how incredible Corsica truly is, mountain to sea, solitude to energy, all in a single day’s ride.
Day 3: Ajaccio to Bonifacio
It wouldn’t be a proper morning without starting with French pastries and a fresh baguette. At Chez Antoine campground, a local bakery delivers them each morning, and I stocked up on an almond croissant, a baguette, and an apple turnover, and sat by my tent to enjoy them. My neighbor, a fellow traveler from Germany who spoke fluent English, offered me coffee. We chatted about our travels, sharing stories and curiosity in equal parts.
After breakfast, I packed up my bike and took one last look at the beach. It was the final day of the trip, and I felt that bittersweet mix of excitement and the creeping sense that I didn’t want it to end.
I left Ajaccio with a mix of excitement and tired legs. The coastal sight of the Mediterranean glistened as I climbed away from the beach. There was a sense of accomplishment knowing I’ve conquered the island’s toughest climbs, but the day still demanded focus. The roads were busier today, which was understandable given many tourists visit Ajaccio on day trips.
The winding roads hugged the coastline as I leaned into each turn while the landscape constantly shifted. The closer I got to Bonifacio, the more dramatic the scenery became. There were jagged towering limestone cliffs, with the ocean as the backdrop. Far in the distance I saw boats and a cliff that seemed to guard the edge of the island which told me I was closing in. There was a mix of relief, and accomplishment, the perfect ending to days spent pedaling through the heart of Corsica.
Trip Planning
There are several ways to get to Corsica. You can fly into Ajaccio or Figari airports and then arrange transport to Bonifacio if you plan to start your ride there. My journey was a bit different—I was in Sardinia a few days before my tour and took a short 30-minute ferry that brought me directly to Bonifacio.
If you plan to stay in Bonifacio, I recommend booking a hotel with an elevator. I rented an Airbnb for the duration of my trip to store my extra belongings, and quickly learned that many of the charming old buildings don’t have elevators—some even have steep, narrow staircases to reach your room.
While in Bonifacio, take time to enjoy the town’s unique character—explore its historic sites, stroll the Marina, and sample the local restaurants that make this cliffside town so memorable.
The Route
Corsica Wildways is designed around 3 nights of bikepacking starting and stopping in Bonifacio. The route begins in the south and takes you north chasing the GT20 for 65 Miles of climbing into Zonza, a small village in the mountains with a friendly place to set up for the night at La Riviere camp ground. Day 2 brings you along the Alta Rocca region for dramatic mountain passes with breathtaking views before dropping down to sea level in Ajaccio for the evening. And finally day 3, a steady ride with stunning landscapes of the Mediterranean as you ride into Bonifacio to end the trip. The total route is 135 miles with 15,588ft of elevation gain. That will qualify this route as a climbers delight, but don’t let that deter you from experiencing the beauty this place has to offer.
Because with every challenge comes an opportunity to grow, learn, and become stronger than you were before. The best part is the stories you get to share with others.